We know that lots of Americans cross the Rio Grande to shop in Mexico. In reality, retail flows both ways. And the No. 1 shopping destination for Mexicans shopping north of the border is McAllen, Texas, where you can buy such diverse goods as a $1,000 floral print blouse, wholesale silk flowers, and frothy formal frocks for teens poised to blossom into womanhood.
McAllen, population 130,000, boasts more than 40 shopping centers, according to our hosts, the McAllen Convention & Visitors’ Bureau. Not all are worth visiting if you are only in town for a few days. After all, odds are you have a Target or Walmart not far from home and you will want to reserve a good chunk of time for checking out the region’s spectacular birds and tropical plant life. (More on that in a future blog post.)
Don’t miss Jones & Jones, McAllen’s high-end specialty store, which offers such upscale wares as Mason Pearson brushes, St. Johns resort garb and a luxurious porcelain sink set in an antique vanity. Expect a posh showroom and highly attentive service.
While you are there, grab a bite to eat at Peppers at Uptown, a very good contemporary restaurant in the same shopping center. I highly recommend the Red Drum, grilled redfish served on a bed of saffron rice with white wine cream sauce, crab, tomato and spinach.
Our favorite repast in McAllen was at Lansky & Brats, an honest-to-goodness steakhouse that could go toe to toe with the best of them in Chicago. It has the vibe of a place where Sinatra would hang out, with clubby booths, dark wood tables and friendly, professional waiters. Lansky’s serves aged prime Midwestern beef and seafood flown in daily, including Alaskan king crab legs.
Do venture off Route 336 (aka North 10th Street) into downtown, where JCPenney still boasts its hip mid-century facade. Coqueta’s is one of a number of boutiques that cater to quinceañeras, the extravagant celebrations that are an important rite of passage for Latinas turning 15. Dresses are colorful, over-the-top confections, typically with full, sweeping ballgown skirts.
During our visit, we saw a lovely quinceañera in a canary yellow gown posing for pictures in front of Nuevo Santander Gallery on North Main Street. The gallery offers museum-quality firearms, Mexican religious icons, original contemporary art and a smattering of jewelry. Located in a Spanish-style stone building, it’s a cool place to browse and acquaint yourself with local artists or do some serious shopping.
On the other end of the retail spectrum is Tonita’s Ropa Usada, where second-hand clothing is sold by the pound or at dramatic markdowns. Think of it as a treasure hunt, except the gems are designer jeans and gently used Coach bags. Among the notable finds on our visit: a Ralph Lauren sundress, still with its original hang tags, marked at $16.99.