There are lots of white wines that deserve our attention beyond Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc.

When it comes to pairing a white with seafood, I’m raising a glass to Lagar de Cervera Albarino 2014, produced by Lagar de Fornelos in the Rias Baixas region of Spain. (SRP: $17.95)

Albarino is pale yellow with green hues, a visual preview to a taste that is fresh, clean and slightly tangy. Lagar de Cervera is fragrant with notes of apple, apricot, pear and pineapple. The grapes for this complex and well-balanced white are grown in a region where the soil is rich with granite, reflected in its strong, flinty finish.

What you don’t get are some of the notes we have come to associate with other whites: the oak of domestic Chards, the citrus of Pinot Gris, the herbaceous quality of Sauv Blanc.

This is a white with both clarity and oomph, a pleasant partner with grilled shrimp or squid, seared scallops, steamed mussels or paella. It’s also a happy choice with fresh cheeses, especially creamy burrata. The next time you are shopping for whites, give an Albarino a try.