As we glide toward summer, let’s uncork a rosé from the sunny vineyards of Portugal. I’m pouring Defesa Rosé, an intense, elegant wine with notes of red cherry and blackberry made by the Herdade do Esporão winery, in the Alentejo region, also a celebrated source of olive oil.

No shrinking violet, Defesa is robust for a rosé, with a slightly herbal feel. The color is the deep pink of a Mediterranean sunset.

If you shy away from rosé wines, I encourage you to give one a try the next time you light up the barbecue. Defesa is a good match for grilled chicken or spicy shrimp or perhaps a salad sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. Also think of a nicely chilled bottle of rosé as a thoughtful gift for your hosts, delivered with a bouquet of pink roses. Expect to pay about $14 for this well-made import.