Brio is not your typical chain restaurant. It’s a destination for Tuscan-style fare and a great place for sharing, with seasonal small plates, grilled dishes and chef’s specialties.
We were invited to sample a tasting menu at the Brio location at Christiana Mall, which includes a bustling dining room, friendly bar and outdoor seating in fine weather.
Our server is warm and knowledgeable, a pro who can help diners make decisions and pair wines with their meals.
For starters, we tuck into velvety fresh Burrata cheese, drizzled with olive oil. We spread the cheese on crusty grilled slices of ciabatta baguette with tangy roasted tomato compote. We sip two wines: Conundrum, a round, pleasantly acidic white blend from California; and 19 Crimes, a fruity Australian red blend.
There are a lot of beans in Tuscan cuisine and a lot of beans on Brio’s menu. We sample a small plate of white bean dip with parmesan pizza bread. Pureed cannellini beans are topped with a salad that keeps the dish from being too starchy: artichokes, Kalamata olives, sun-dried tomatoes, arugula and feta.
Our favorite course of the evening is the 16-ounce bone-in espresso rubbed rib eye served to us by general manager Michael Collins. The cut is juicy, tender and flavorful, presented with savory sides: Sicilian cauliflower oven roasted with capers, pepperoncini and pine nuts, and creamed spinach and kale with toasted bread crumbs. The perfect pairing: Decoy by Duckhorn, a robust Cabernet.
Typically, this would be plenty of food for us. But we still have more dishes to mangia through.
We sample two chef’s specials, reminding one another that we need to save room for dessert. Prosciutto wrapped pork tenderloin is pan seared and served on a bed of cannellini beans and rendered pancetta. It’s homey and delicious, fragrant with fresh rosemary and grape tomatoes.
Balsamic braised beef short rib is quintessential comfort food. It’s paired with oven-roasted carrots that remind me of my grandmother and butter-basted wild mushrooms, an unexpected treat.
Such a sumptuous repast calls for a decadent dessert and our hosts do not disappoint. Flourless chocolate torte is already lush and indulgent. The chef puts it over the top with chopped Marcona almonds and super smooth olive oil gelato.